We've always made sure we make no waste.

Making to order means every jacket does to a good home. Every off-cut from the making process is recycled into new thread, and water used in the dying process is cleaned and re-used on site.

Although, a few months ago when we were moving house, we noticed that we had a tiny pile of 2 jackets that actually were wasted after all. They had tiny flaws that meant we weren’t happy selling them.

Both of them were the result of fabric dying tests that didn’t go well, and the fabric had become rougher and a bit bobbled. Making is a human process, so of course, this happens.
So, with these two wasted jackets, we decided to start our first collaboration with one clear intention.

Our First Collaboration: Leave No Waste.

We sent a package to Jaimus Tailor, the London based designer behind the Greater Goods label - a line of accessories made with deadstock fabrics or deconstructed outerwear that's seen better days.

Do you know what you're making before you start cutting up? 

Cut first design later is my motto.

Often when working with clothing it’s hard to imagine a 3d shape as a flat piece of fabric so I almost always go in with my scissors and blade to dissect all the panels before sketching out a design. I don’t have a fashion/textile background so I kind of discovered my way of working and just develop through practice and a little bit of research.

Could you tell us about the making process?

First I check out the garment I want to reconstruct. No sketching or planning just mental note taking, understanding the fabric and how it feels, will it cause any issues with my sewing machine? Will it iron flat? Does it have elastic properties?

Every project is unique so it’s good to be prepared.

Then I’ll clip on a new blade on my scalpel and begin deconstructing the garment, removing all the hardware and details such as buttons, labels and zips.

Everything gets kept and things that don’t get reused in this project will be put to use in projects down the line, it’s an endless loop that only improves with the more making I do. It’s like a fine up-cycling wine.

Once everything as be deconstructed I lay out all the parts of the garment to see what I have to work with. At this point I either sketch out a quick design (usually just a doodle) or just go straight into making and freestyle the whole product.

The Paynter X Greater Goods collaboration is made up of twelve pieces:

All from two jackets which hadn’t made our cut. Incredible.

If you'd like to get your hands on one, these won't be for sale. They can only be won. 

Check back this Saturday to find out how to win.

Read all about how Greater Goods begun and check out their earlier collections here. 

Or, scroll for more of the making process.